I wasn’t happy with my best nine, so I picked ones that mattered to me. A lot has happened this year. A few of my heroes are now my friends, ideas were turned into reality, a business was started, we experienced life on our little plot of land, I’m approaching 10,000 followers and Izzy kissed me.....#bestnine2017
In our new Tables video, I show how to hew the bevel into the drawer bottom with a hatchet. This is careful and fine work that saves a lot of planing. I do clean it up with a fore plane once I’m close to the line but I’ve seen remaining hatchet marks on the drawers of some pretty classy furniture made even as late as the 1830s. If you’re interested in these kinds of techniques, check out the link in our profile for the full video.
A massive 440 lb Söding & Halbach single horn (‘einhorn’) anvil with a nearly 7” face. It has excellent rebound and the S&H maker mark with a 1905 datemark and the “forget me not” logo. This is a forged anvil, forgewelded together out of at least 6 pieces, including a thick hardened steel face that extends out over the horn, unlike most anvils with a step. For sale, please send a message for price/info. I can ship inexpensively. Have a great Thursday 🤙.............. #anvil # anvils #blacksmith#blacksmithing#forge#metalwork#tools#handtools#vintagetools#antiques
We pride ourselves on offering bathroom and shower suites at an affordable price that combine style and practicality, and we are confident that our products will stand the test of time because of their robust build quality.
Nearly all the fore planes in our neck of the woods are open tote so the closed one on this plane made it stand out. Stamped "HATHERSICH" makes me believe it was made by George Hathersich, an English plane maker between 1797-1851.
In my experience as an architecture student, these are some tools I believe every student could stand to add to their collection of tools. When you get to school they tell you to get a bevy if drafting and modeling tools. I believe a saw, a block plane, a half inch chisel, a marking gauge, vernier/dial calipers, and a set of six and three inch dividers are a great inclusion that many students are missing out on. Most students buy a tiny saw kit with an aluminum miter box. There's nothing wrong with the box but the saw is worthless. It has zero set and neutral rake so it takes forever to cut through any stock larger than a 1/4". Which is really the only reason you should use a saw. I lend my saws out all the time. A proper saw is just an absolute essential for cutting basswood. Any stock smaller than 1/4" and a chisel is really handy. A lot of kids don't even know what a block plane is so usually they use sandpaper where a block plane would be a more appropriate tool to use. It's actually a shame that designers don't use dividers anymore. I feel like I shouldn't have to explain why they are essential to their tool kit. Mine are vintage lufkin which are really nice but don't come with the premium cost vintage (and new) starrett dividers come with. I use the marking gauge really as more of a slitting gauge for making consistent strips out of basswood, Bristol, chipboard, etc. It's much easier, safer, and more accurate than using a straight edge and a razor. The calipers might be a little overkill but I use them all the time for accurate (+/-0.002") measurements whether I'm doing a scale drawing for a small assemblage, setting the depth of my marking gauge, or measuring from existing small parts I just find it extremely useful and I don't go a single day without using it. With the exception of the marking gauge and chisel I bought all these tools used. There's no reason they can't be used. It's at least a hundred dollar investment but I mean you have to spend that in software ever two semesters. I think they're worth it. #architecture#architecturestudent#caus#design#handtools#toolsofthetrade#handtoolthursday
There were a couple of drilled holes in the top of the coffee table that I decided I didn’t like the look of. So I grabbed a piece is scrap, fashioned a plug out of if with a chisel, put some glue in there and filled em up.
I’ve had to do this a few times on other projects and learned the lesson to always make them much longer that needed, it makes for trimming with the flush cut saw so much easier when there is a lot of material to work with. #plugnplay
Three different stages of spindle making. First is a roughed out, super dry spindle. The second one has some important marks on. One being the peak of the bulge, the bottom two are on a half inch tenon, they are my "do not shave these off yet" marks. Once the main body of the spindle is shaved down to flush with these marks, I'll very methodically remove them, leaving a shaved 12mm tenon, which fits my drill bit. Note that the rotary planed part stops short of an inch up the tenon. This is to make sure that what is seen in the chair is tiny shaved facets coming out of the spindle deck, rather than a confused area that is a mix of shaving and cross grain cuts. The final spindle is the end result.