🇬🇧 The Restaurant Time Machine. It’s hard to summarise a legend as Horcher, one of old Madrid’s last survivors. Short after hitting bottom the economic crisis, 2011 brought some unexpected closings: Príncipe de Viana, Jockey (closed/reopened/closed again), 21 Club. Others were at risk, like Zalacaín -Madrid’s first Three-Star Michelin of the long-remembered Jesús Oyarbide- or the exemplary Central European cuisine of Horcher. New trends seemed to have left behind old schoolers. Fortunately, Horcher has managed to accomplish the motto “change everything so that nothing changes”, with its fine linen, its silver cutlery, impeccable service and new face behind the kitchen door: David Hermann.As classic as it gets, we start with warm bread buns, butter, fresh radishes and home-made terrine, to be continued by the lobster salad and the comforting Victor consomé -an homage to journalist and writer Víctor De la Serna- where sirloin dices are seared and pressed to extract all the juices, which are heated and seasoned afterwards. A must-see show. Delicious.
Horcher overflows good taste in its main courses. New classics as the lobster ragout -with generous shaved truffle and spaetzle-are outstanding. Meat and game dishes are their strong points however. It still has one of the best burgers in town, 100% sirloin, juicy and savoury. And finally “the clash of the titans”: veal escalopes with oporto sauce and truffles and deer stroganoff with spaetzle. Rich, complex sauces, paired with delicious pommes soufflés.
Well-deserved mention to the chocolate cake and the baumkuchen, with freshly-whipped cream and hot chocolate sauce. Central European cuisine taken to another level. From the infinitely long wine list, we chose versatility: Marqués de Riscal’s Cabernet Sauvignon and the madrilenian El Regajal 2015 Selection. Excellent recommendations, both the Quinta do Noval’s Tawny Port (10 years) and GonzálezByass’s Pedro Ximénez, a unique Very-Old-Rare-Sherry Wine.
It’s quite a paradox that Horcher could have become an “avant-garde” of the renewed tradition. And it’s worth a visit to indulge yourself. Long live the aristocratic Madrid!
I made this meal on Saturday night and it was so damn good I had to make it again tonight. Mushroom, lentil and kale truffle stroganoff (I guess, I adapted a few recipes and used what was in the cupboards) topped with bacon bits. Totally vegan and totally delicious 🤤 to think I never used to like mushrooms! 🍄🍄🍄