Call me crazy, but I'm really looking forward to those below freezing mornings when you wake up with the sun, get a coffee and head to the beach in hopes of finding waves like this. Here's an example of @the_backwoods_crew doing what he does best on a morning like I just described.
Chocollie's Point. 🍫
I'd bet only a handful of people have seen this world famous wave like this. We went there only 2 days after probably the worst storm that has ever impacted Costa Rica #TropicalStormNate , even worse in infraestructural damage than last year's Hurricane Otto, which was the first ever hurricane to make landfall in the history of #CostaRica . The captain was even hesitant to leave at first afraid about the storm not being over yet. We finally left the pier and during the 1hr boat ride, we kept seeing every single cliff from the coast with uncharacteristically waterfalls from all the water that had rained and that was still, 2 days later, draining into the ocean.
Ollie's has two nearby rivermouths, which was the reason for the wave's uncharacteristic color due to all the sediments and minerals that had drained into the ocean because of Nate. Many people could think the color of the water meant it was dirty, however since the wave is surrounded by a national reserve, this is not likely the case. You could even get fined it you set foot on the beach!
That doesn't mean it was all fine to be swimming around. I spent the next 4-5 days with a sore throat and speech issues from all the particles in the water. That, and the constant eerie feeling of having a cold-blooded reptile swimming next to me all the time, made for a remarkable session I won't forget anytime soon. #SpotCheck#SurflineLocalPro#ThisIsCostaRica#OlliesPoint#SonyA6000
All she wanted
was to find a place to stretch her bones.
A place to lengthen her smiles
and spread her hair.
A place where her legs could walk
without cutting and bruising.
A place unchained.
She was born out of ocean breath.
I reminded her;
‘Stop pouring so much of yourself
into hearts that have no room
Do not thin yourself.
You do not bring the ocean to a river’.